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SEARCHING FOR THE HERITAGE: GOLDEN LYDIAN FASHION IN ANATOLIA

Year 2019, Volume: 1 Issue: 2, 216 - 238, 25.12.2019

Abstract

When the diversity and
richness of traditional and cultural background and long history of textiles
and rich heritage of textile crafts, that Anatolia has granted to us, are
compared, it becomes hard to explain the insignificant role Turkey has been playing
on the fashion runways. For years the majority of the Turkish students of
fashion and clothing have approached the academic understanding of clothing and
fashion through the perspective of the western history of costume and the
historical and traditional clothing issues remained beyond students’ concern.
It is in this study that we are seeking to explicate the properties of
historical knowledge to manipulate into a unique fashion collection.
Understanding the principle role of historical knowledge in fashion design has
been a key motivation underpinning this research. The assignment of a team of
four, undergraduate students at fifth semester, who volunteered to take part in
this research, was to design a collection of 20 styles and was to complete 4 among
them. The inspiration centered on the Lydian Empire, which ruled Anatolia
between 680 and 546 B.C. A detailed analysis of Lydian history and clothing
identified several recurrent themes and issues regarding the rich interplay
between materials and design. When four of the Lydian inspired dresses were
completed, they were presented by professional mannequins on the catwalk during
the exposition called Lydian habrosyne.

References

  • Aelian, On Animals 12. 9 (trans. Scholfield) (Greek natural history C 2nd to 3rd A.D.) Retrieved August 10, 2010 from http://www.theoi.com/Cult/ArtemisCult4.html
  • Akşit, I. (2008). Anatolian civilizations and antique cities of Turkey. In A. E. Williams, & J. R. Williams (Trans.& Eds.). Ankara: Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
  • Brunello, F. (1968). The art of dyeing in the history of mankind. In N. Pozza (Ed.), B. Hickey (Trans.). Vicenza: Officene Grafiche Sta.
  • Cohen, B. (2000). Not the classical ideal: Athens and the construction of the other in Greek art. [Electronic version], Leiden: Koninklijke Brill NV. Retrieved August 3, 2010, from Google Books.
  • De Long, M. R., & Peterson, K., (2004). Analysis and Characterization of 1930s Evening Dresses in a University Museum Collection, Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 22. <doi:10.1177/0887302X0402200301>.Retrieved August 29, 2010.
  • Department of Ancient Near Eastern Art. "Lydia and Phrygia". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000 <http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/lygo/hd_lygo.htm>, Retrieved August 29, 2010.
  • Derks, T. & Roymans, N. (2009). Ethnic constructs in antiquity: The role of power and tradition. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press. Fibula [Central Anatolia, Phrygia] (1970.231.1). (2000). In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved June 3, 2010 from http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/phry/ho_1970.231.1.htm
  • Eicher, J. B. & Sumberg, B. (1995). World fashion, ethnic and national dress. Dress and ethnicity: Change across space and time. In J. B. Eicher (Eds). New York: Berg.
  • Entwistle, J., & Wilson, E. (2001). Body Dressing. New York: Berg Publishers.
  • Finnane, A. (2008). Changing clothes in China: Fashion, modernity,nation. New York: Columbia University Press.
  • Gale, C., & Kaur, J.,(2004). Fashion and textiles: An overview. New York: Berg Publishers.
  • Gimbutas, M.A. (1974). The gods and goddesses of old Europe: 7000 to 3500 BC myths, legends and cult images. California:University of California Press
  • Greaves, A. M. (2010). The land of Ionia, society and economy in the archaic period. Wiley-Blackwell.
  • Greenewalt C.H. Jr., & Payne, S. (1978). Ritual dinners in early historic Sardis. California: University of California Press.
  • Greenewalt, C. H. Jr., & Majewski, L. J. (1975). Lydian textiles, section IX., From Athens to Gordion. The Papers of a memorial symposium for Rodney S. Young, The University Museum, 3 May, 1975, In K. Devries (Ed.). Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania.
  • Gürcüm, B.H., & Başaran, F.N. (2009). Creating modern designs with Pomak weaving. E-Journal of New World Sciences Academy, 4(4), 2C0014, 153-168.Homeros, (2007). lliad. [Electronic version]. Samuel Butler (Trans.). Wildside Press LLC, Retrieved July 2, 2010, from Google Books.
  • Langenscheidt’s Latin-English Dictionary.(1955). Berlin:Taylor & Francis.
  • Maspero, G. (2003). Passing of the empires 850 BC to 330 BC. Kessinger Publishing.
  • Miller, M. C. (1997). Athens and Persia in the fifth century BC: A study in cultural receptivity, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
  • Muller, F.M. (1897/2003). Contributions to the science of mythology, 2. Kessinger Publishing.
  • Munn, M. (2006). The Mother of the gods, Athens, and the tyranny of Asia: A study of sovereignty in ancient religion. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  • Pausanias, Description of Greece. (trans. Jones) (Greek travelogue C2nd A.D.) Retrieved August 10, 2010 from http://www.theoi.com/Cult/ArtemisCult4.html
  • Perrot, G., & Chipier, C. (1892/2009). History of art in Phrygia, Lydia, Caria and Lycia. [Electronic version]. London: Chapman and Hall. Retrieved July 3, 2010, from Google Books.
  • Rykwert, J. (1998). The dancing column: An order in architecture. MIT Press.
  • Strabon. (2009). Antik Anadolu Coğrafyası. (Geographika: Kitap xii-xiii-xiv) Prof. Dr. Adnan Pekman (Trans). Nezih Başgelen (Eds). 6th Print. İstanbul:Arkeoloji ve Sanat Yayınları.
  • Taylor, L. (2002). The Study of Dress History. [Electronic version]. Manchester: Manchester University Press. Retrieved August 29, 2010, from Google Books.Winckelmann, J. J. (1849). The history of ancient art: Vol-2. Giles Henry Lodge (Trans.). Boston: James Munroe and Company. Retrieved August 2, 2010, from Google Books.
Year 2019, Volume: 1 Issue: 2, 216 - 238, 25.12.2019

Abstract

References

  • Aelian, On Animals 12. 9 (trans. Scholfield) (Greek natural history C 2nd to 3rd A.D.) Retrieved August 10, 2010 from http://www.theoi.com/Cult/ArtemisCult4.html
  • Akşit, I. (2008). Anatolian civilizations and antique cities of Turkey. In A. E. Williams, & J. R. Williams (Trans.& Eds.). Ankara: Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
  • Brunello, F. (1968). The art of dyeing in the history of mankind. In N. Pozza (Ed.), B. Hickey (Trans.). Vicenza: Officene Grafiche Sta.
  • Cohen, B. (2000). Not the classical ideal: Athens and the construction of the other in Greek art. [Electronic version], Leiden: Koninklijke Brill NV. Retrieved August 3, 2010, from Google Books.
  • De Long, M. R., & Peterson, K., (2004). Analysis and Characterization of 1930s Evening Dresses in a University Museum Collection, Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 22. <doi:10.1177/0887302X0402200301>.Retrieved August 29, 2010.
  • Department of Ancient Near Eastern Art. "Lydia and Phrygia". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000 <http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/lygo/hd_lygo.htm>, Retrieved August 29, 2010.
  • Derks, T. & Roymans, N. (2009). Ethnic constructs in antiquity: The role of power and tradition. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press. Fibula [Central Anatolia, Phrygia] (1970.231.1). (2000). In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved June 3, 2010 from http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/phry/ho_1970.231.1.htm
  • Eicher, J. B. & Sumberg, B. (1995). World fashion, ethnic and national dress. Dress and ethnicity: Change across space and time. In J. B. Eicher (Eds). New York: Berg.
  • Entwistle, J., & Wilson, E. (2001). Body Dressing. New York: Berg Publishers.
  • Finnane, A. (2008). Changing clothes in China: Fashion, modernity,nation. New York: Columbia University Press.
  • Gale, C., & Kaur, J.,(2004). Fashion and textiles: An overview. New York: Berg Publishers.
  • Gimbutas, M.A. (1974). The gods and goddesses of old Europe: 7000 to 3500 BC myths, legends and cult images. California:University of California Press
  • Greaves, A. M. (2010). The land of Ionia, society and economy in the archaic period. Wiley-Blackwell.
  • Greenewalt C.H. Jr., & Payne, S. (1978). Ritual dinners in early historic Sardis. California: University of California Press.
  • Greenewalt, C. H. Jr., & Majewski, L. J. (1975). Lydian textiles, section IX., From Athens to Gordion. The Papers of a memorial symposium for Rodney S. Young, The University Museum, 3 May, 1975, In K. Devries (Ed.). Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania.
  • Gürcüm, B.H., & Başaran, F.N. (2009). Creating modern designs with Pomak weaving. E-Journal of New World Sciences Academy, 4(4), 2C0014, 153-168.Homeros, (2007). lliad. [Electronic version]. Samuel Butler (Trans.). Wildside Press LLC, Retrieved July 2, 2010, from Google Books.
  • Langenscheidt’s Latin-English Dictionary.(1955). Berlin:Taylor & Francis.
  • Maspero, G. (2003). Passing of the empires 850 BC to 330 BC. Kessinger Publishing.
  • Miller, M. C. (1997). Athens and Persia in the fifth century BC: A study in cultural receptivity, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
  • Muller, F.M. (1897/2003). Contributions to the science of mythology, 2. Kessinger Publishing.
  • Munn, M. (2006). The Mother of the gods, Athens, and the tyranny of Asia: A study of sovereignty in ancient religion. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  • Pausanias, Description of Greece. (trans. Jones) (Greek travelogue C2nd A.D.) Retrieved August 10, 2010 from http://www.theoi.com/Cult/ArtemisCult4.html
  • Perrot, G., & Chipier, C. (1892/2009). History of art in Phrygia, Lydia, Caria and Lycia. [Electronic version]. London: Chapman and Hall. Retrieved July 3, 2010, from Google Books.
  • Rykwert, J. (1998). The dancing column: An order in architecture. MIT Press.
  • Strabon. (2009). Antik Anadolu Coğrafyası. (Geographika: Kitap xii-xiii-xiv) Prof. Dr. Adnan Pekman (Trans). Nezih Başgelen (Eds). 6th Print. İstanbul:Arkeoloji ve Sanat Yayınları.
  • Taylor, L. (2002). The Study of Dress History. [Electronic version]. Manchester: Manchester University Press. Retrieved August 29, 2010, from Google Books.Winckelmann, J. J. (1849). The history of ancient art: Vol-2. Giles Henry Lodge (Trans.). Boston: James Munroe and Company. Retrieved August 2, 2010, from Google Books.
There are 26 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Journal Section Araştırma Makaleleri
Authors

Banu Hatice Gürcüm

Publication Date December 25, 2019
Submission Date September 12, 2019
Published in Issue Year 2019 Volume: 1 Issue: 2

Cite

APA Gürcüm, B. H. (2019). SEARCHING FOR THE HERITAGE: GOLDEN LYDIAN FASHION IN ANATOLIA. Ankara Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Dergisi, 1(2), 216-238.